Inspiring Style

I just noticed this in the March issue of US Vogue: an exhibition has opened at the Phoenix Art Musuem in Arizona celebrating the life and style of Ann Bonfoey Taylor.

The remarkable Taylor, who lived and entertained in high style between Denver and Vail, was one of the first women to earn a pilot's license, played tennis at Wimbeldon, and was a champion shot, a dashing equestrienne, and a member of the US Women's Olympic Ski team.

Sounds like an amazing lady, hey? She was also a model and designer who launched her own range of ski wear in the 1940s. Even though I've never been skiing - I'm allergic to cold weather - I can imagine it isn't easy to look chic covered in snow. LOVE those crazy ski goggles and the pink lippie.

Taylor amassed an amazing collection of high fashion during her lifetime, which was bequeathed to the museum. Below is some Charles James, Balenciaga and Givenchy to drool over.

Something Old, Something New

The Oscars just ain't what they used to be. Sure, the ceremony has got shorter, the awards are more diverse and my TIVO means I can fast forward through the dull songs, but it seems that actresses these days are too wary of the more mainstream fashion pundits to make a real statement in their dress. Personality is definitely missing and after this year I'm more convinced than ever that the Costume Institute Ball and Cannes are where it is really at for red-carpet fashion.

Having said all that, Anne Hathaway was totally gorgeous in each of her eight costume changes. I think these were my faves: Armani Prive, Givenchy and Vivienne Westwood.

The only person who really blew me away was, unsurprisingly, my aspirational friend Cate B. I remember marvelling at this Givenchy gown when this couture collection was first showcased. Comprised of only ten gowns, each of them is a work-of-art from a truly gifted designer. Riccardo Tisci really is working at the height of his powers and funnily enough this dress was one of my favourites (who doesn't love lavender?). The hours that would have gone into all the intricate beading on this dress boggles the mind and Tisci could not have hoped for a better fashion plate than Cate. She has such a regal air and her hair and make-up were perfection too.

Another star who isn't afraid to take risks is Marisa Tomei. She regularly wears vintage to big events and as I was blown away to see her wearing Charles James, the father of American high fashion. I don't think I've ever seen a real-life human being in this century wearing a James couture gown; usually they are found on mannequins in museums. Marisa sourced her James from Lily et Cie in Los Angeles, which is the same store where Renee Zellweger found her Oscar Jean Desses a decade ago. I've got to admit though that while this dress is AMAZING, I don't think it fits Marisa that well, particularly around the bust. The catch-22 is that it would be sacrilegious to alter a piece of design history like this, so I've got to give Marisa credit for wearing it and thus raising the profile of this oft forgotten great designer in the process. You can read more about him at an old post of mine here.

Designer Profile: Charles James

From local ready-to-wear designer to a couture legend, I'm enjoying mixing it up a bit with my designer profiles. Charles James is oft referred to as the father of America couture and none other than Christobal Balenciaga himself called him "the world's best and only dressmaker who has raised [dressmaking] from an applied art to a pure art form."

James - born in England and settling in the US in the 1920s - began as a milliner in Chicago before making the move into dressmaking. Sadly, James had a rather tragic life. His creations where more like architectural wonders, containing considered design and construction. Rather than working to the body, he worked to his vision, playing around with fabric to fashion a unique garment that could stand alone (and I mean this quite literally ... many of his dresses could stand up without a body in them!). He was known for taking his time and I read a quote that he could spend two months working on one sleeve!

Unfortunately his lack of business acumen and his flawed relationships meant he was never financially successful . In the mid 1940s he was designer for the couture collection at Elizabeth Arden but was fired after only one year. Following that he established his own couture label ... with a limited range of garments ... which continued until his retirement in 1958.

He had a select and loyal clientele, that included Mrs William Randolph Hearst (above) - who would wait months for one of his startlingly original designs. He also encouraged his clients to donate their pieces to museums once worn, so he was obviously aware of his genius, even if he wasn't able to channel that into a successful business a la Christian Dior.

I hope you enjoy these gorgeous images. The final ballgown demonstrates James' prodigious use of colour and pattern and has to be one of the most flawless gowns I've ever clapped eyes on. No wonder fellow designers gush so and still namedrop him as valuable inspiration.

Thanks to the Fashion Institute of Technology Museum and Kent State University Museum for a number of the pics.

Inspiration: John Galliano and Charles James

John Galliano's haute couture shows for Christian Dior never fail to leave me breathless, and his 2020 collection is no exception. Galliano says he was inspired by the Gibson Girl and mid-century couturier Charles James, plus a little bit of equestrian style thrown in for good measure (note riding crop in first pic).
Christian Dior himself credited James as an inspiration for the New Look, so 2010 sees a very post post modern take on the work of one of the greats. Charles James' ballgowns - above are some examples from the Fashion Institute of Technology's collection - were out of this world, and the same can be said of many of these new haute couture wonders. Love the vibrant colours, the luxurious duchesse satin, the draping on the skirts and the artfully constructed bodices.

Apparently teen blogger and fashion wunderkind Tavi was front-row at the show, but I am rather loathe to admit that even though I think she is cute and witty and crazy smart - and that I am delighted that fashion bloggers are really making their mark - I am a bit bereft at this news. This is mainly because it has sharply brought home to me that I am way, way too old to be a prodigy of any sort. Plus what I would have given to be front-row at the Paris haute couture shows at only 14 years of age. Even now, in my early thirties, I may well donate a vital organ. 'Tis all very well to pursue the interwebs for a gander, but imagine getting a birds-eye view of the fabrics and construction and gawking at the fash pack too? I can but dream ...

Thanks to Style.Com for the pics.