Book Review: Movie Star Style

I mentioned that I was lucky enough at Christmas time to receive a copy of Edith Head: The Fifty Year Career of Hollywood's Greatest Costume Designer. I had read the book cover-to-cover by New Years Eve and now I dip in an out of it occasionally and most particularly when I'm watching an Edith Head credited film.
The book provides a fascinating insight into a truly accomplished woman and the photos and illustrations are to die for. I love old movies (well, the good ones), and as well as a snapshot of fashion history there is loads of Hollywood gossip and movie trivia contained within the glossy pages.
Edith started out at Paramount in the 20s when women rarely received a credit on any film unless they were starring in it. After assisting designers like Travis Banton and Howard Greer, it was Edith's costumes for Mae West in the early 30s really took her career to the next level, and she went on to mould the look of many famous stars including Dorothy Lamour, Barbara Stanwyck, Elizabeth Taylor, Grace Kelly and Natalie Wood. In those days, before personal stylists and fast fashion, Hollywood stars often turned to studio costumiers for their civilian wardrobes too.
Edith hit her peak in the 1950s when some of Paramount's most successful films were made and she soon become a household name. She gave regular fashion advice on TV and in print and even, for a while, had a touring show so that movie fans could see some of her most famous frocks up close and personal. The shot above is from one of those shows.
Edith become close with many of the actresses she dressed (she was quoted saying that Grace Kelly was her favourite ever and they were friends) but like most she had a dark side too. Although she was much lauded and won 8 Academy Awards during her career there were, according to author Jay Jorgensen, a number of instances where she took credit for other designers works. Clearly she was fiercely ambitious.

As Edith become more and more successful she did less sketching of her designs herself but these old fashion illustrations were just so divinely pretty, I couldn't not include them. Here are some of Edith's recognisable designs from All About Eve, Harlow, The Great Race, To Catch a Thief and Vertigo.

Edith Head: The Fifty Year Career of Hollywood's Greatest Costume Designer is published by Running Press.

Fashion on Film: Elephant Walk

Its been lovely over the Christmas break to catch up on some non work related reading and watch lots of old movies, swim everyday at the beach, and generally do nothing much. One film I just watched was Elephant Walk with Peter Finch and Elizabeth Taylor. The dear hubby bought me a copy of Jay Jorgensen's beautifully illustrated Edith Head biography for Christmas (more on that later) and Head was the costume designer on this 1954 film.
Taylor plays a young English woman who marries a tea plantation owner who whisks her away to his plantation, Elephant Walk, in Sri Lanka (then Ceylon). The spectre of her husband's dead father hangs over the plantation, plus there is a creepy housekeeper, disgruntled elephants who are upset that their access to water has been blocked by the plantation's bungalow, and a love triangle with one of the plantation employees. There are echoes of Daphne du Maurier's classic Rebecca in the new bride's isolation and in the dramatic and fiery ending. I found the love triangle not particularly convincing, nor were the tense scenes particularly scary, but the film looks beautiful as it was shot on location in Sri Lanka. For a clothing tragic like me though Taylor looks absolutely breathtaking. Vivien Leigh was originally meant to play the role of newlywed Ruth but had to pull out of shooting because of ill health, and Taylor replaced her at the last minute. Here's a quote about the costuming for Elephant Walk from the Edith Head book:

The incredible wardrobe worn by the character throughout the film is explained in the script by a reference that the newlywed couple stopped off in Paris to buy a trousseau on the way back to Ceylon. The standout design was a gown of draped white chiffon with a gold corselet, which was very similar to a gown Edith had designed for Patricia Morison in The Magnificent Fraud. Edith also incorporated Indian design in a dress of silk linen with a molded later neckline with a full skirt that resembled an Indian sari, that was accessorized with a narrow belt embroidered with gold and pink pearls and a pink East Indian sari stole.

Personally my favourites are the candy striped dress with the asymmetrical neckline and the beautiful white evening gown with the gold belt. Taylor's waistline is very flatteringly highlighted throughout, and its very interesting to note that this film came out the same year that Head won the Oscar for Sabrina, for which the most famous gowns were actually designed by Givenchy, and unduly credited to Head.

And the winner is ...

I threw all the names of the entrants in my book giveaway into a little vintage clutch, and the lucky name to be drawn out was Kiwi Camelia Crinoline, who chronicles her adventures in thrifting and sewing on her lovely blog. Congrats Camelia ... you'll be receiving a copy of Fifty Dresses shortly.
I've thoroughly enjoyed reading your nominations for life changing frocks/outfits, and here I've included pics of most. I've also decided to nominate my own earth shattering dress; none other than this iconic Givenchy designed dress from the 1954 film Sabrina. Leaving aside the lacklustre romance that drives this flick, Audrey's costumes are truly memorable, & this ballgown in particular - created to highlight the moment when Sabrina transforms from gawky ingenue to womanly sophisticate - has mesmerised me since I was a little girl.

Every vintage loving girl fell in love with Reese's 1950s Dior. A seminal red-carpet moment of the last decade.

Faye Dunaway as Bonnie Parker ... the sweater and skirt set that launched many a vintage obsession in the 1970's. When old clothes became hip.

Who doesn't want their own version of Marilyn's hot pink satin frock hanging in their closet? Alas many a pretender out there has tried and failed to pull this look off with her aplomb.

Thanks to Andi B. Goode for introducing me to this magnificent confection, as worn by Jayne Mansfield in The Girl Can't Help It.

In a lifetime of elegant outfits, Grace Kelly's Edith Head designed black & white cocktail frock in Rear Window is particularly unforgettable.

Diana inspired a million and one meringue wedding dresses in the 80s after she walked down the aisle. I've seen this gown in real life and it is AMAZING.

My favourite wedding dress of all time, and it seems many others agree.

And finally the divine Audrey again, this time "pretending" to get married as a model in Funny Face.