A Claire McCardell Summer

You've probably noticed that I post about summer clothes a LOT. That's because I'm a sun baby who lives for the heat on my skin. I like spring and autumn too but the only saving grace about winter is that there is another summer just a few months around the corner. Oh, and I celebrate my birthday.

So as I wish this winter away and dream of my next summer, here are a few classic Claire McCardell pieces to help set the mood. The great American sportswear designer was renowned for her bathing suits and her revealing sundresses that wouldn't look out of place on summer holiday today. You know what is missing from these pictures though? Sunglasses. 

Jo Copeland Frocks

I posted a beautiful 1949 advertisement for Pattullo - Jo Copeland the other week and I thought I would follow that up with this selection of gorgeous vintage frocks from the label which you can buy right now.
The black 1940's dress above is from Shrimpton Couture and is for sale for AUD$271.72.

This unique 1950s satin cocktail dress with velvet bows is from Mercyvintagenow and is available for AUD$230.18.

This dress from Fab Gabs is Indian inspired and features a beautiful brocade. It is AUD$407.16.

And this day dress with the unusual neckline is currently up for auction at Basic Threads. With only two days to go, if you love it, you better jump on ebay now!

Tzaim Luksus - Art Nouveau

In the March 1966 issue of US Vogue I came across this wonderfully colourful editorial entitled Art Nouveau - flowering again in America.

The story claims that in 1996 Art Nouveau was undergoing a spirited renaissance in contemporary design: furniture, decor and fashion. And one of the most exciting torchbearers for this renaissance was American painter turned fabric designer Tzaim Luksus. Luksus had received a COTY fashion award in 1965 for his startling prints and in the same year that this editorial would appear, he would show his own dress collection. He would keep showing into the mid 1970s, as a fan of the tent and kite silhouettes.

In this case the fabrics are Luksus' but the designs are courtesy of Geoffrey Beene and Pauline Trigere. I love the originality and modernity on display here, the models back lit beautifully by stained glass. The last dress is a particular fave.

The photographer was Gordon Parks and if you can steal a glance away from the dresses to the hairstyles, you'll discover they are completely wild? God knows how the models posed with such heavy hair pieces. So 1960s.

And doesn't Verushka look stunning in the last two pics?

Early Jean P

From the same 1948 issue of US Vogue as those photos of a 16-year-old Elizabeth I posted comes these two images of the glorious 50s top model Jean Patchett. Jean would have been only 21 or 22 when these photos were taken, and in the first year of her modelling career, which lasted until 1963. She signed with an agency in early 1948 and by the end of the year she was already a cover-girl, gracing the pages of Vogue.

The editorial that the photographs come from is called 'Fashions For A Man's Eye' and has models posing in some of Vogue's favourite recent frocks for the benefit of a panel of men who give their thoughts. It's all quite amusing really and is a concept still used in magazines today.

As the point of this issue is 'Will a man like them?' we went to four acidulous young columnists, who were part of the male rebellion against the new-born new look a year and a half ago; showed them the dresses, invited them to say exactly what they wanted to about them, pro or con.

You might like to know that the judge for Jean's first dress said men embarrass easily. This dress isn't embarrassing.
And for the second dress the male critic said I like halter-tops. They show off a good back.

When it comes to men, it seems not too much has changed. All the men declared that they detested ballet flats! (Lucky we don't care what they think).

The advertisements in this issue are just as exciting to pore over as the fashion editorials. I think my favourite frock is the gorgeous Patullo - Jo Copeland for the opening of the Opera ... for a brilliant ball. Patullo - Copeland was a shared ready-to-wear label designed by Jospehine Copeland, based in New York, that existed from the 20s through to the 60s. You can read more about her over at the Vintage Fashion Guild.

Interestingly her daughter, the novelist Lois Gould, wrote a memoir in the 1990s about her mother, from a child's perspective. Called Mommy Dressing I'm sure it would provide a fascinating insight into the world of early American high fashion.

Designer Profile: Jacques Fath

I was excited to see the other day that actress Jennifer Morrison from House wore a vintage Jacques Fath dress to a film premiere the other day. And then I realised that I've never really blogged about Jacques Fath who, along with Christian Dior and Pierre Balmain, was one of the great French couturiers of the Golden Age. He started his small couture business in 1937 but it soon grew to be a large one after his creations proved so popular. In 1949 he signed an agreement with American manufacturer Joseph Halpert to design two ready-to-wear collections, which was one of the first such licensing deals (something that Dior would go in for in a big way).
Jacques was known for his hourglass designs and his genius with pleats, but alas he died young in 1954. His very chic wife, former model Genevieve Boucher de la Bruyere (see second from last pic) took over the running of the house until 1957, after which time it was closed. The label was reincarnated later as a perfume house, for a time it produced apparel again, and these days it makes luxury leather goods only, which is why the name doesn't have quite the same ring to it as the continuously run couture houses like Chanel and Dior. But Jacques creations were truly wow. Here are just a few examples ...

There is a great clip of a Fath show from 1956 on You Tube. The embedding function has been disabled, but you can check it out here. Oh that final gold evening gown.

Designer Profile: Philip Hulitar

I saw this gorgeous cocktail frock pop up for sale over at Shrimpton Couture (some wise lady has already snapped it up) and it reminded me that I had intended on profiling Greek/American designer Philip Hulitar for quite some time. I don't think I've stumbled upon a piece of his that I haven't fallen a little bit in love with, and I think the proof here is in the hip swag and the blossoms (some of which have been appliqued onto the fabric).

According to the Vintage Fashion Guild Philip Hulitar was the custom designer of evening, wedding and maternity attire for Bergdorf Goodman from 1935. In 1949 he launched his own label and he was known for his sophisticated but sexy designs, which are highly collectible now. In 1964 he retired from fashion but still led a very public and full life as a building preservationist and patron of the arts. He passed away in 1992 and you can read more about him over at this New York Times obituary here.
I love his designs because they are pretty and colourful and glamorous without being too girly or frou frou. I think people should wear what they feel comfortable in regardless of age (except jeggings, which should NEVER be worn, EVER), but as I get older, I have noticed that my tastes change and that I don't feel comfortable in some of the particularly cutesy items that used to appeal.
I would desire, however, to wear any and all of these Philip Hulitar dresses.

This cocktail dress from Posh Girl Vintage has been sold to a lucky princess. I love the appliqued leaves and that pinky shade of mauve on the bodice.

And if I sold my car I might be able to buy these three frocks right now.
You can check them out for yourself over at Enoki World, Vintage Textile and Torso Vintages.

Designer Profile: Tina Leser

There are some clothes which transcend the era in which they were made and stay modern looking forever. There are many items from the great mid-century American designer Tina Leser that I would put in that camp. Tina was a contemporary of other great American designers like Claire McCardell, Anne Fogarty and Bonnie Cashin. She originally started designing for her own clothes shop in Honolulu in 1935 and her creations were influenced by Hawaiian prints and styles. By the 1940s Tina was working in New York and selling her 'American sportswear' to the masses in stores like Saks. The war years - when American women were unable to purchase European designs anymore - heralded a golden age for American fashion, and clothes had to become practical as well as decorative. The Vintage Fashion Guild even says Tina referenced American factory workers by using flannel and plaid in her frocks.

Tina loved to travel and was inspired by the prints and silhouettes of India, Mexico, China and more.

Tina was also an accomplished swimwear designer; she had an arrangement with Gabar swimsuits for many years. I particularly love these swim/play suits with floral embroidery on the bodice.

And here is a dress with very similar embroidery, courtesy of Fuzzie Lizzie. I wonder if they were from the same collection, or if this was one of Tina's signatures. Regardless, it is lovely work.

Tina wound up her business in the early 80s and passed away in 1986. Her wearable creations cost a pretty penny these days, but it isn't too hard to find items from her label.

One day I'm determined to make a real life Tina Leser mine, but meanwhile here are a few items - some still for sale - that you and I can both drool over. Whether done simply in plaid or gingham or stopping traffic in florals or paisley, Tina Leser's prints truly were divine.

Violetville Vintage / Unknown / Passion-Fashion / Cats Pajamas / Living Doll Vintage / Little Things Vintage / Little Things Vintage / Little Things Vintage / Little Things Vintage / Blue Velvet Vintage / Senorita Hollywood / Vias Vintage